Leftovers

On opening the fridge recently I had been turning a blind eye to various bits and pieces that were glaring accusingly at me.  This week I could take it no longer.  The issue was some food that had been bought for Christmas and somehow was still, in the middle of January, residing in my fridge.

I’d bought too much cream, my daughter had returned from university with a surprising number of apples.  A red cabbage destined for my Christmas salad was getting soft in a corner of the fridge alongside a celeriac and some puff pastry purchased on the off chance I wasn’t in the mood to make my own flaky pastry (I wasn’t but it didn’t get used).

Like so many I was brought up with the imperative that there should be no waste.  Never put more on your plate than you can eat and always, always finish what is on said plate.  That sort of thing.  Quite a lot of that ethos has filtered through to me and I can’t bear waste, whether it is scraping plates into the bin after lunch or shamefacedly throwing away food from the fridge that I have failed to use.  So it was in this spirit that I set too with all the sulky ingredients, determined that they should all have their moment in the spotlight.

The cream tasted fine despite having a late December use by date (what do they do to it?) but feeling sure its days were numbered I made it into butter.  Eschewing the jar shaking that my Granny taught me many years ago I used the big mixer.  Obviously I turned away just as the butter separated from the buttermilk and I got splashed but my delight was no less than when making it in an old jam jar as a child.  Always delighted by a bit of kitchen alchemy I suddenly had a handful of butter to squeeze, wash and salt.

The red cabbage was chopped and cooked with one of the apples, some red wine vinegar, brown sugar and redcurrant jelly.  A celeriac – along with some just beginning to sprout potatoes – was transformed into a rather delicious Ottolenghi gratin.  The recipe asked for 10 leaves of sage but, don’t you know it, only a few in the packet bought for the festivities were still green.  Anyway, it was still fab and we had the gratin with the red cabbage and the sausages from the freezer than hadn’t fallen into the puff pastry.

Let’s not stray too far from reality however.  I was the one who had bought all (most of) these ingredients and it was my inefficiency that resulted in them loitering for so long.  The joy derived was because, despite having been neglected, they had been used rather than chucked in the bin and I think I therefore enjoyed the results all the more.

Thus I would implore you to give any sad stuff skulking in your fridge a fighting chance.  Whilst it might no longer be suitable for its original purpose, there is usually a fine alternative to found, you might even create a new family favourite.

Get ready for Christmas

I am always delighted when people tell me they find my Christmas tips useful so if you are one of those then please, do read on.  There are several posts from previous years (December 2020, November 2016)  which you could turn to or see this recap below.  There might seem a lot but it’s a fairly quick read and if you just take a couple of tips which help then it’s worthwhile.  Plan some menus, make a few things ahead, shop well – it all helps.

Getting ready for Christmas means different things to us all.  For some it is getting your presents bought and wrapped in October, for others it is having a freezer full of ready prepared meals and, of course, some would panic if their house wasn’t decorated top to toe by the 1st December.  I am a mix of the first two but rarely get the house dolled up much before 16th or thereabouts as that is when term used to end for my children and we embarked on the Christmas holidays proper.

Food is what we are here to talk about however so, here we go.  My plans can go two ways depending on whether or not we are hosting so let’s kick off with that.  Without doubt, the more people we have here for Christmas the more organised I am.  Anything that can be prepared ahead and stored or frozen will be and this includes –

Roast potoates – these can be par boiled, shaken and frozen separate on a tray.  Once frozen just tumble into a bag or box and freeze until Christmas Day.  Put them straight onto a baking tray with hot oil and roast from frozen.  These work a treat and getting them done is a most satisfying box to tick. I favour King Edwards or Maris Pipers for really good roasties and do more than you think you will need, they will get eaten.

Gravy – I will make a base gravy ahead of time and then combine that with turkey or beef cooking juices on the day.  Much easier to get ahead with this than to be juggling giblets in your Christmas best.

Pigs in blankets – unless your butcher does cocktail sized sausages I would buy good, meaty chipolatas, twist in half and cut each one then wrap in streaky bacon.  Again flat freeze until hard then keep the in bags in the freezer, these I would defrost before cooking. Alternatively freeze the in foil trays and cook them directly in those.

Cranberry sauce – make it ahead and freeze then defrost and decant.

Bread sauce – make this as usual then freeze.  Defrost and on heating you might well need some extra milk to loosen the consistency.

Stuffing – I will usually make a pair of stuffings, one sausage based and one veggie.  Pack into foil trays then defrost and cook in these.  Decant into prettier bowls for serving.

We tend to have a baked ham for lunch on Christmas Eve.  It is suitably festive and celebratory to get things going and then means the ham is all ready for sandwiches, if you can fit them in, for supper on Christmas Day (or a slice to go with a fried egg on Christmas morning if needs be).  We have these with red cabbage and boiled potatoes.  I either strew the boiled potatoes with a good handful of chopped parsley or, if I have the energy and inclination, make a parsley sauce to go with the ham.  Cumberland sauce is never a bad thing to have here.  We almost always have my Tiramisu Buche de Noel (picture above) for pudding here.  Whilst rich and treaty it is also very light and you can make both components the day before.

Christmas Eve supper is where I definitely want to get ahead.  You may have guests arriving, presents to wrap or simply a lack of energy – either way it’s good to know that supper is already prepared.  I favour a vegetarian curry or tagine of some description.  These are easy to put together and it doesn’t hurt to have a night off meat before the big day. Sarah Raven’s mushroom, chickpea and kale one has served me very well a couple of times and is happily made ahead and frozen.  This year we are having my Cauliflower curry (December 2023) which is a breeze to make and properly delicious.  I’ll add rice, poppadoms, raita and chutney.

I think breakfast on Christmas Day is essential.  You may have been woken up early by children and it is worth considering that a drink or two may be taken around midday (if not earlier) so some lining is a good idea.  Whilst I wouldn’t necessarily go for a full cooked number I would offer my Christmas granola with yogurt, croissants, toasted sourdough and maybe boiled eggs.  If, however, you are going for a late afternoon lunch you may want something much more substantial for breakfast – don’t go mad though, remember you have quite the feast coming up.  We’ve always had children around so I tend to keep lunch at lunchtime.

Canapés are a treat I always look forward to with drinks and everyone seems to appreciate these to keep them going before lunch.  My gougerès are a must and I am quite a sucker for traditional smoked salmon on either thin brown bread or little blinis.  These pancakes can be made a head and frozen, I rather like them with some finely chopped chives mixed in the batter.  Some bought crisp flatbreads topped with my cannellini bean dip (April 2015) and some herby green sauce (July 2013) are another welcome and easy number.

Although Christmas lunch is no more than a big Sunday lunch really, there are always distractions, drinks and demands so this is one of those times when I write down a time plan.  Whilst it may seem a bit over the top I can’t tell you how much it helps when a glass of fizz has been taken to have a reminder of what needs to go in the oven and when etc.  You don’t want to feel frazzled before lunch even starts and you don’t want guests drunk or starving.  Do remember to get the turkey, goose, beef or whatever out of the fridge in good time, this really must be at room temperature before going in the oven.

Once lunch is out of the way it’s usually the King’s Speech (although we aren’t always quite finished by then) and then after a suitable pause a walk for some much needed fresh air.  As a child we walked down the lane playing hockey with upside down walking sticks and it set us up for a pot of tea and Christmas cake.  Now you really are on the home run with just those wonderful leftovers winking at you for supper.  Please make sure you have some good mayo on hand, mine is super easy (May 2024) and you can make it beforehand.  I would also recommend some appropriate bread, it might just be me but I find a well filled sandwich made with sourdough requires jaw dislocation to eat.  Which brings me on to a few more useful things to have in the freezer –

A couple of different loaves, we love sourdough but it isn’t perfect for everything, as mentioned above, the smoked salmon and leftovers sandwiches are better with a thinner slice.

Ice, buy some bags so that no one gets in a bait when they find that the ice trays haven’t been refilled with water and frozen.

Coffee, freezes a treat and no-one wants to run out of it.

Vanilla ice cream, for a quick pud with a slice of fried left over Christmas pudding, an affogato or just with a chocolate or caramel sauce.

Naan breads to jazz up any leftover turkey curry.

Having said all that, I know the shops are open practically every day but I rather like the feeling of being well stocked and not having to go out for a week.

Finally, you being happy and relaxed will create the best atmosphere.  Remember, lighting some candles will cast a pretty glow and no-one will notice a dusty house;  a good sprinkling of chopped, fresh herbs will cover most mistakes;  a brisk walk in some fresh air is the ideal re-set;  there will be masses of food so everyone will be fine.

However you are planning to spend Christmas, I hope you eat well whilst remaining relaxed and if any of these tips have helped you achieve that then my Christmas will be all the better.

This is my Chocolate Pudding cake which you can make now and put in the freezer.  A treat to find lurking in the icy depths when you barely have the energy to lift your head from the sofa.

 

 

Oaty Mincemeat Squares

Oaty Mincemeat Shortbread 3

I often make something we imaginatively call Jammy Oaty Slice – can you guess what is in it?  Of course you can and I highly recommend it as a delicious tea time offering.  The other day I was looking at a tray of it cooling ready for scoffing and it reminded me of the mincemeat slice that used to adorn the bakers’ shelf at Christmas in Yorkshire.  Heavily dredged with icing sugar, it was completely white from the top and the layers were crisp and even (really!) in the way only a practised hand can accomplish.

So of course I had to have a go at making it myself.  Whilst I love mince pies, my immediate family (i.e. the ones I actually live with) don’t like anything with cooked raisins or dried fruit.   This means that if I make mince pies then I am the only one who will eat them unless we have friends over and when it comes to a Christmas cake…. Well, suffice it to say I ate all of the the last one which graced a tin in our house.  All of it and I made another in January because I had enjoyed it so much…..

These little squares are much safer then.  Rather than a huge cake winking at me from the corner I can safely eat one of these treasures with a cup of tea on a daily basis without having to book into the gym afterwards.   Like two layers of shortbread with mincemeat in between, somehow better than a traditional mince pie if that is not too shocking a statement? The oats add an extra element which is just right and of course go a good way towards balancing out the sugar and butter.  Heading for health food is what I say….

Oaty Mincemeat Shortbread

Oaty Mincemeat Squares

If you want to go for the original Jammy Oaty Slice then just replace the mincemeant with jam, I favour raspberry.  However, please do give them a go this Christmas, they are a million times easier than mince pies if you need to make a batch for a sale and are just delicious.

250g plain flour

125g oats

135g caster sugar

200g cold butter

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon fine salt

450g mincemeat

Icing sugar

Preheat the oven to 180.  Line a tin of approximately 23cmx32cm  with baking parchment.  Whizz together the flour, oats, butter, sugar, baking powder and salt briefly in a food processor (you want it combined but not forming a ball of dough as it needs to be quite crumbly for the top layer).  Tip half of the mixture into the baking tin and press it to cover the base in an even layer.  Spread the mincemeat over this and then sprinkle the remainder of the mix evenly over the mincemeat and press it down gently.   Bake for 30-40 minutes until golden on top.  Remove from the oven and leave to cool completely before dusting with icing sugar and cutting into squares.

Oaty Mincemeat Shortbread 2

 

 

Do ahead Christmas tips and Spiced Cherries in Bacon

Spiced Cherries

I read something recently about preparation for Christmas being over-rated.  Hhhm, I thought, not written by someone who has to squeeze the buying, wrapping, cooking and all other prep into an already busy life and actually wants to spend some of Christmas with their family!

So call me a swot but I do believe in a bit of list making and using the freezer where I can. Last year we had 10 here over Christmas (3 meals a day for 3 days plus a few extras) and I was so pleased (and relieved) with what I rustled up and stashed away beforehand.  Here are some of my tips of what worked and suggestions that might help you this year.

For Christmas Day I pre-prepared the roast potatoes.  King Edwards peeled, parboiled, given a good shaking to rough up the edges and then frozen.  I cooked them from frozen in hot vegetable oil (no goose fat, vegetarian present) and they were amazing, the best roasties and what a pleasure not to be peeling a hundredweight of potatoes and steaming myself over them before lunch.  We will be a far smaller gathering this year but I will still do these, not just to minimise work whilst my children are beside themselves with yuletide excitement but also because they were so crunchy and fluffy.  Highly recommended.

Christmas tips 2

For the big day I also made stuffing, both a sausage and vegetarian one which were both then reheated in the foil containers they were frozen in and decanted into nice dishes for lunch.  I made two gravy bases which I froze the week before and they helped enormously to make a full flavoured gravy at the last minute without any hassle.   Cranberry sauce, pigs in blankets made and frozen, bread sauce too, I just added a bit of extra milk on reheating.

Now I know none of these things take long to make on their own but when you’ve got to do all of them at once (and find a saucepan for each one) it can be a headache.  Also, wouldn’t you rather see your family and friends unwrapping presents (which you’ve then got to build/play with etc) and perhaps enjoy a glass of champagne yourself….

I also made some little canapés which were great to have tucked away to be whipped out whenever a festive drink was in order.  Cheese gougeres, sausage rolls, courgette polpette, crunchy seeds (Things with Drinks, October 2012) cheese sables (December 2013) and these spiced cherries in bacon.

This might sound like the craziest recipe in the world and you may well raise your eyebrows at me but seriously give them a go.  They are sweet, savoury, tangy, salty juicy little bundles of deliciousness and so good with a cold glass of something.  On that note, if I could steer you towards my Sloe Vespa, the Christmas cocktail (December 2012), then all the better!

Spiced Cherries in Bacon

Once you’ve got over laughing at this recipe, get cracking on it now, the cherries only get better the longer they languish in the Worcester sauce.  Remember too that once the first lot of cherries are gone you can top up the tub with some more as the WS will be good for another batch (or pour the sauce into the next tub of cherries, if you see what I mean).

1 tub of glace cherries

Worcester Sauce

Streaky bacon, half a slice per cherry

Take the lid off the cherries and pour in Worcester sauce until the cherries are submerged. Put the life back on and keep in the fridge until you are going to use them – at least two weeks but a couple of months ahead is fine.  Preheat the oven to 180 and line a baking sheet with parchment.  Wrap a cherry in a half slice of bacon and secure with a cocktail stick.  Repeat with the rest of the cherries and bacon.  Cook for 15 minutes until the bacon is cooked and starting to caramelise with the sweet sticky juices.  Allow to cool for a few minutes and then serve.  Makes around 24.

More tips next week!

I first posted these tips in November 2013 but I thought now a useful time to offer them again plus you need to get those cherries soaking!